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Inside the wine cellar of… Jérémie Guiraud, head sommelier

Interview by Laurence Gounel

Jérémie Guiraud has been the bar manager and head sommelier at Château & Village Castigno – Wine Hotel and Resort for two years and a half.

Jérémie Guiraud, Head Sommelier at Château & Village Castigno – Wine Hotel and Teritoria Resort.
Head Sommelier: Jérémie Guiraud, photo credits: © Olivier Pascuito

I’ve always been passionate about gastronomy, and after earning my French high school diploma and completing my studies in law, it was a small job in a restaurant in Brighton that sparked something in me. I quickly developed an interest in wine, immersing myself in books on the subject. Not long after, the chef at the “Lords of the Manor” restaurant in Gloucester decided to entrust me with more responsibility… What started as an assistant sommelier position soon evolved, and within a few years, I was given the freedom to shape and manage the wine cellar of a Michelin-starred restaurant in London. This experience then opened the door for me to return to France and join the renowned team at “La Réserve de Beaulieu” in the South of the country.

I was particularly drawn to Chef Stephan Paroche’s philosophy. His strong commitment to the concept of local sourcing aligns with our Écotable certification, and our ultimate aim is to achieve a Green Star. He asked me to develop the bar solely with products from the Occitanie region, ensuring perfect harmony with his cuisine. Moreover, he encouraged me to go beyond traditional wine pairings and explore creative beverage pairings—both alcoholic and non-alcoholic—ensuring they complement the dishes in thoughtful and innovative ways.

I don’t follow trends or rely on labels. My focus lies purely on the ethics of the vineyard. I prioritize wines with low sulphites and those produced through biodynamic methods. Ultimately, my goal is to provide an exceptional experience for my guests. While I enjoy showcasing wines from small, lesser-known producers, I don’t restrict myself. The key is to awaken emotions in those who experience it.

Front of Château Castigno

I adapt myself, using intuition and psychology, and I’m lucky enough to have clients who trust my judgment in selecting their wine pairings. Another core principle is keeping markups reasonable to foster loyalty. I prefer to keep my selection dynamic, constantly rotating wines to ensure variety and freshness, rather than letting my cellar become a stagnant, out of reach collection.

I prefer to think of them as creative pairings. It’s an idea that resonated deeply with the chef, especially after his work experience in Asia. With road safety laws in mind and the desire to refresh the palate during a 4- or 6-course meal, as we offer here, it seemed like a natural approach. I also wanted to incorporate a sustainable philosophy by minimizing waste and repurposing kitchen scraps, such as transforming vegetable scraps or leftover bread into vinegars…

Terrace of the restaurant of the Château & Village Castigno – Wine Hotel et Resort Teritoria

For instance, for one of our signature dishes, I craft a homemade onion cola. For our Anchois-Caviar signature dish, I draw inspiration from orange wine by making a reduction of Timut pepper, which I pair tableside with a homemade elderflower vinegar. At the last moment, I dilute the mixture with water, adjusting it to match the guest’s preference. This exploration into new “territories” fuels my creativity and opens up endless possibilities.

Château & Village Castigno – Wine Hotel et Resort
9, avenue de Saint-Chinian
34360 Assignan
Tel : +33 04 67 24 26 41

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Valentina Vrenna, a hotelier proud of her region

By Laurence Gounel

Unlike those who destroy buildings and palaces every day in order to rebuild, with no regard for the environment. Beauty comes from authenticity, from considering a neighbourhood as a whole, from being aware of a place, its soul and the heritage that deserves to be respected. Whether in the city or the countryside, an address will arouse emotions because the very essence of the place is palpable, not just because the furnishings and decor are up to scratch. When the overall harmony is there, then the magic happens: between people, deep inside… Our priority? To offer a sustainable tourism experience by creating a virtuous circle at every level, from the furnishings to the service and the history of the place.

We’ve forged strong links with Calabria, a region rich in culture, landscapes and history, and with its ubiquitous gastronomy. This starts with giving priority to natural local resources, from construction (wood, metal, clay and ceramics) to our menus, with Calabrian vegetables (especially tomatoes) and fish from the Ionian Sea… And by multiplying authentic experiences, such as visits to small villages and unspoilt environments. We take our role as ambassadors of local know-how to heart, with the 100% local selection in our grocery shop.

‘A tale of two sounds: one a gentle song from the sea, the other as warm and penetrating as the timbre of voices rising from our lands. The region of Senatore Cappelli’s ancient durum wheat, shepherds, fields of olive trees as far as the eye can see and lemons of unrivalled diversity. A region of traditions, beauty and generosity, over which time has no hold.

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A chef with a passion: (re)discover lentils with François Gagnaire…

By Laurence Gounel 

« This product, which is part of the identity of my region, is still often associated with memories of canteens or the army… yet it is a simple product which, when well prepared, brings great finesse and which, in my opinion, derives its nobility from its versatility. »

François Gagnaire

Lentils are just as natural on family tables as they are on Michelin-starred ones. Easy to use, it can be used all year round and its neutrality offers a wide range of possibilities.

Chef François Gagnaire’s secret to twisting its roundness? Star anise, which adds a lovely freshness. But the chef’s audacity comes in three ‘ways’: as grains, when it is served at Anicia ‘s as lentil caviar (in a caviar tin) with a carp crumble worked with mascarpone, fresh ginger, lime and dill; as flour, to make ’homemade’ blinis, galettes and breads; as a purée, when it is blended until it forms the famous lentil pulp that makes a bavaroise (on which a crumble is placed that resembles the volcanic earth that gives it its name), a velouté or to create desserts such as a crème brûlée, a lentil and blueberry tart or a frangipane cake to celebrate the kings.

The green Puy lentil, a unique and well-deserved appellation in the world, even featured in the France 5 report (french tv show) “Toi l’Auvergnat, quand tu mangeras !

Through chef François Gagnaire’sinnovative approach to the green Puy lentil, Teritoria underlines its commitment to promoting a gastronomy that celebrates local produce while pushing back the boundaries of culinary creativity. This story illustrates how Teritoria supports a vision of cuisine that is both rooted in the terroir and open to the world, proving that the simplest ingredients can be transformed into exceptional gastronomic experiences.

With Teritoria, discover chefs who transform the everyday into the extraordinary, paying homage to our rich culinary heritage while inviting you to explore new flavours and textures.

Sign up for our newsletter to keep up to date with our latest news, or offer the gift of an unforgettable lentil experience with our gifts.

La montagne selon Omar

L’hôtelier franco-libanais Omar Abodib, déjà propriétaire du Donjon-Domaine Saint Clair à Étretat, a inauguré une adresse skis aux pieds à Saint-Sorlin-d’Arves, au cœur du domaine skiable des Sybelles, en Savoie.

Par Laurence Gounel

L’histoire est d’abord celle d’un rêve de petite fille. Celui de l’épouse d’Omar, qui rêve depuis longtemps d’un chalet à la montagne. Son vœu est exaucé pendant la crise sanitaire et une opportunité en dévoilant une autre, un hôtel familial est à vendre dans ce même village préservé de la vallée de la Maurienne. Un établissement construit en 1969 et tenu par la seconde génération qui l’exploite « dans son jus ». Omar saisit cette chance de poursuivre une histoire d’hôteliers indépen- dants – critère qui lui est cher – dans un village aux traditions fortes et au terroir bien vivant. Propriétaire des lieux deux mois avant le début de la saison, c’est d’abord le salon qui est entièrement revu et corrigé pour l’ouverture en décembre 2021. « Une priorité car ici, le fil conducteur demeure la convi- vialité. L’idée n’est pas de rester dans sa chambre mais bien de profiter du feu de cheminée et des apéritifs qui s’éternisent. C’est toute l’atmosphère d’une maison de famille que je veux cultiver à la montagne. » Un fil rouge qui prend tout son sens avec la vision de l’hospitalité chic et conviviale qu’affiche déjà Omar au Donjon à Étretat.

D’ailleurs, l’esprit « un pied à la mer, un pied à la montagne » a séduit les plus fidèles qui sont désor- mais clients des deux, car c’est un état d’esprit qu’ils viennent chercher dans ce 3 étoiles savoyard au confort décontracté… Si les 32 chambres avec balcons et vue – dont 4 suites et 2 duplex pour cette nouvelle saison – ont gagné en lumière, literie haut de gamme et une salle de bains contemporaine, l’hôtel cultive cette image vintage du ski des années 1970, décomplexée et joyeuse jusque sur les pistes. « Cette atmosphère chaleureuse qui me semble naturelle en montagne me permet d’être encore plus dans l’échange et la spontanéité avec mes clients. Et c’est pour cela que je prends autant de plaisir à faire ce métier. La vue exceptionnelle, l’exigence du confort et le souci du détail n’empêchent pas de cultiver un relationnel fort. » Même sens du joyeux tous les jeudis soir avec une soirée libanaise et des mezzés à partager, tandis que le restaurant valorise les autres soirs une carte courte et travaillée. Jacuzzi, hammam et sauna privatifs, spa avec deux cabines… Rien ne manque à ce chalet au charme vintage qui se veut être un vrai rendez-vous.

4 questions to Alexandre Semperé…

First & last name : Semperé Alexandre

Establishment name : Les Ombres au musée du quai Branly – Jacques Chirac, Paris

What makes your establishment special?

It’s this unique identity that makes Les Ombres special. We have brought together the DNA of chef Alain Ducasse: Naturalness, the Mediterranean and Modernity in one place.

Like Teritoria, you are involved in the development of more responsible gastronomy. How does this work for you?

Seasonality and the choice of our suppliers are at the heart of our restaurant.

As soon as we work on a dish, we select the producer and the product. We work as much as possible with small producers and suppliers, whether for vegetables, seaweed, flowers, fish…

For example, we adapt to the harvest and adjust our dishes according to what the grower sends us. As for the products we receive in small quantities, we use them for our appetisers, which we change regularly.

And finally, to reduce waste and avoid wastage, we are careful to match the number of place settings reserved to the right quantity of raw materials, and vice versa.

As a chef, which season particularly inspires you? What are your favourite regional products to work with?

Spring is my favourite season and the one that suits me best. It’s a season that’s all about plants, with lots of sea shoots and flowers… and that suits my cooking.

Otherwise, when it comes to plants, spring and summer are the best seasons, because that’s when you find products like peas, courgettes, broad beans, green beans, prickly artichokes… that I like to work with.

And for sailors, the best seasons are autumn and winter, with mussels and oysters…

What message would you like to get across to Teritoria who come to visit you?

I invite them to come and discover Les Ombres restaurant, so that they can discover our cuisine combining the worlds of plants and the sea.

4 questions to Viviana Varese…

… From VIVA restaurant in Milan

What makes your restaurant special?

My restaurant is special because it has been designed and imagined on the basis of who I am, on my manifesto, whose key words are inclusion, biodiversity, sustainability, love of food… on the values I want to convey, on the use of colour and light.

You personally studied and designed the spaces in your restaurant… Where did you get your inspiration and what atmosphere did you want to create?

Obviously, all these aspects were studied with professionals: Giulia Reali’s ALMAGREAL for the design of the brand, and Arca architects Sabrina Bignami and Alessandro Cappellaro for the design and appearance of the restaurant. The focus is on colour, light and iridescence.

What’s your best travel memory?

I’m lucky enough to be able to travel a lot, also because of my work, and get to know different cultures and countries. One of my best memories is certainly my trip to Colombia, where I was able to cook with local women in a wild and unspoilt natural environment, surrounded by music and their incredible energy.

Your cooking philosophy?

My philosophy is to use the environment and food to convey the idea of being ‘VIVA’ (which, in Italian, means ‘alive’), using living raw materials, colours, emotions and vitality. In my dishes, taste and ingredients are the protagonists.

An introduction to permaculture
at La Fenière Lieu de Vie, in Cadenet…

Nadia Sammut is one of those examples worth following… The only Michelin-starred chef with a gluten-free menu, she cultivates micro-hospitality and a regenerative economy by using almost exclusively her own territory. Because customer care is more than just a fleeting luxury, this committed chef is offering a three-day total immersion in ‘the living’. The first step is a mindful walk through the forest, accompanied by mountain guides. This is followed by a plant-based buffet with infusions of plants grown on the estate, and a first meeting in the vegetable garden with a market gardener who explains how the soil is nourished and goes over all the work involved in sowing. In the evening, the gastronomic experience takes full effect in 11 parts.

The following day, Nadia Sammut usually invites a player from the living culture sector to give a private talk and fuel the discussions. “It’s important to pass on what we see, experience and support every day, as chefs and producers. That’s what real luxury is all about these days: providing tangible access to committed worlds, and being committed to the end… with homemade kefirs in the mini-bar, sustainable bedding, etc.”