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10 June 2024
Between vineyards and hospitality
A prime example of quality wine tourism, Château Fage combines the authenticity of a wine estate with the charm of a hotel in the Bordeaux region.
By Laurence Gounel
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©Jérome Mondière
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Portrait of Guillaume Sévellec – ©Sébastien Billant
It’s the smallest appellation between Pomerol and Saint-Émilion: the Graves de Vayres offers an ideal terroir between sea and countryside, according to Guillaume Sévellec, Chairman and CEO of Château Fage, a 4-star address inaugurated two years ago. Just over three years of work were enough to transform 12,000 m² of vineyards and ruined buildings into a complete site – vineyard, brasserie, hotel – at the instigation of winegrower Yves Glotin, who initially simply wanted to increase the size of his vineyard. With the exception of the manor house and three dovecotes, all the ruined buildings have been redesigned and refurbished to create an inspiring, intimate and well-considered venue. With just 26 keys, the aim here is to offer a personalised welcome and to embrace slow tourism. There’s no reception area, just a large lounge and a first meeting with the ‘lady of the house’, an opportunity to go into more detail together about what you’re looking for long before you arrive.
In the style of an informal concierge service, the best of the region and local activities are on offer: cycling through the vineyards, tastings, cookery classes, yoga in the heart of nature… Reconnecting with the outside world and the character of the terroir anchor the stay, even in the rooms, whose colour palettes reflect those of the different grape varieties. Garnet and straw yellow are complemented by the omnipresent wood, cork and solid oak flooring.
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©Sébastien Billant
Over and above the commitment on all levels – no fossil fuels used, photovoltaic panels on the roofs, reduction of plastics, recycling of waste, compost, micro-filtered water, etc. – it is the spirit of a family home that prevails at Château Fage. With friendly service, a certain spontaneity of exchange, links that are forged at a safe distance, a relaxed dress code – linen shirts, chinos and shoes made from recycled grape marc. The brasserie has the same easy-going spirit, with a family atmosphere and traditional dishes for lunch: mimosa eggs, calf’s head, minestrone, braised beef cheek… In the evening, the menu is more bistronomic but just as comforting, with straightforward tastes and concentrated juices.
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©Sébastien Billant
Definitely epicurean, the restaurant naturally favours food and wine pairings and is unique in that it serves no fewer than 16 wines by the glass, including grands crus. ‘ The sophistication here is hidden in the details, the ultra-personalised offer and, ultimately, just the desire to please,’ sums up Guillaume Sévellec.
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